Nagano Getaway Pt. 1: Matsumoto - and Dinner!

One of our first weekends in Japan, we rented a car. Mostly to move our boxes from the Navy lodge to our house…but since we didn’t plan on getting a car of our own, it was a great chance for a getaway. We chose to go north to Nagano, to see the castle town of Matsumoto, and then to hike the old “post trail” from Tsumago to Magome.

Matsumoto is mostly famous for “Matsumotojo”, also known as “Crow Castle”. 

The somewhat precarious staircase climbs past a snazzy exhibit of old armor and firearms up to a lookout over the town.  The woodwork and exhibits of the castle were outstanding. The pounding rain made the views somewhat less stunning, but the town itself was charming, full of restaurants, shopping streets, and (for some reason), frogs. We stayed in a charming Ryokan (traditional Japanese-style hotel) complete with tatami floors, shoji screens, and incredible bathing facilities.

However, the best part of Matsumoto was undoubtedly dinner. Our guidebook recommended  a little place called "Sa-No-Haru", noting that it served incredibly fresh, local, traditional Japanese food, in a space more like someone's living room than a restaurant.  

The guidebook was right - and then some. It wasn't the basashi (horse meat sushi) and soba noodles the region was famous for - but it was much better. 

We sat down at a low bar-counter, facing in to a narrow prep space - rather like sitting at the sushi bar. It was spring-time, and all the food was seasonal. We didn't order any of it. But a slow procession emerged from the kitchen, was carefully plated (on appropriately sized and shaped dish ware), and was placed in front of us. First was some sort of small bean, served with local salt, and fresh bamboo shoots. Also, some sort of marinated raidish-y vegetable. Next came tempura vegetables and shrimp; the broccolini served with green-tea infused salt, the shrimp served with a soy-based dipping sauce.

Chef poured sake - sometimes hot, sometimes cold -drinking along with us t each pour. Next came new potatoes - boiled simply, and served with salt. Absolutely delicious, especially with eaten with the pickled radishes.

Following this came a fish course - thick-cut tuna, flash-seared, served with daikon, ginger, green onions, and a soy-and-sesame sauce. Chef grated fresh wasabi into the sauce for us. There are no words.  

Soup followed after - just a simple broth, made with clams, a halibut-like fish, and the softest, silkiest, most amazing tofu we've ever tasted. 

Following this came house-made pickles - cucumber, daikon, and...not quite sure. All delicious. The perfect palate-cleanser.

Rice with yuzu, and fresh oranges (the best this california girl has ever tasted) finished up the meal. 

By the end of the night and conversation, we were pronounced family - photos and gift exchanges followed.